Other Playlist

Car full of 13/14 year old kids (4 or 5 of them), illegally behind the wheel driving, with a car load of other kids, antagonizing/harrassing a neighbor's kid, explicit-cussing, flipping-off, etc etc... Then 30-minuets later, driving it up again and hitting/knocking down over 15 mailboxes by backing into them (underage girls driving still) and take off wide-open back into the neighborhood

Detailed wire color-for-wire color install guide, on how to install a Compustar brand remote start system on a 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ... 1999 model in this video... CS800-S MODEL remote start... been replaced with a updated version now that's nearly exactly identical, except maybe for a wire or two... CS920-S is the newer version, available here on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077NDP76T/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1 I'll eventually get around for doing a detailed write-up for that piticular model soon as I get the chance to do another 1997-2001 Cherokee locally at our garage...

Install video... 1984-1996 Jeep Cherokee, How to speed up your power windows system by installing a simple 12v to 19v step-up converter. Very simple mod!! Completely safe to do, and only takes about 10 mins total to install (virtually plug and play!) Total cost was only $20 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SC6MPV5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Showing how to safely take the power mirror completely apart, to get iniside it to the two seized up, and stuck electric motors inside it; to free them back up and put the mirror back into fully-functional working order once again!... These are the really high dollar top trim level mirror too that were worth saving and giving a new lease on life... These are Power/Heated/Painted/Memory/Auto-Dimming mirrors side view mirrors... The Memory & Auto-dimming features are what make these next to impossible to find true new matching replacement ones in the aftermarket realm... So repairing what you 5 got is by far the best optiin!

Got a cool tip for y'all with older (1984-1996) XJ's... Inside the volatage gauge, there is a clear plastic peice that internally has a magnet attached to it, that can slide up or down on the metal body of the copper winding inside the gauge its self... This is what they use and how they calibrate the stock gauge! The deeper down you slide that peice into the metal body, the higher the voltage needle will read on the gauge (and vice-versa) and over time, years of vibration and bumps can EASILY make that peice slide up or down on its own, and throw the accuracy of the Voltage needle WAY off in either direction... It doesn't take much adjustment at all either for that needle to move!! It's very sensitive to any changes made To fix this issue and recalibrate your orignal gsuge your self, simply remove the gauge from the cluster (just two screws on the back) and get to fine tuning it till you get it showing the perfect voltage to match what a multi-meter reads out with the engine running like I did... Then super glue that plastic calibration peice in place so it won't vibrate loose and lose it's adjustment ever again!

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Hydraulic-fan to Electric fan conversion we made & installed for my brothers 5.7 Hemi Jeep.. We got rid of all of that dumb hydraulic cooling fan setup that runs off the power steering pump, and retrofitted/modded a all aluminum fan shroud that was made to fit the previous generation of Grand Cherokee (99-04 WJ models) to work on this 2005-2010 WK Jeep, since nobody makes a fan shroud specifically for these model Jeeps yet... We first deleted all the 5.7L V8 hydraulic high-pressure lines, by using the 3.7L V6 style high-pressure power steering hoses, and a V6 style power steering pump as well (which had the smaller hydraulic fiting for the V6 line to thread into) everything else bolts right in place same as if it was stock. Makes it into a normal power steering system then! Then we bought the 1999-2004 WJ 4.7L V8 Aluminum Fan Shroud, and cut the mounting tabs off, and relocated them to fit the 2005-2010 era 5.7L V8 Radiator mounting points by using Pop-rivits and stainless-steel fine-thread screws & lock nuts to secure the relocated brackets back to it (easy to do) and then it bolts right up then to the OEM mounting points on the radiator!.. Then we bolted a super nice 16" SPAL Brand electric fan to it, and wired it in with a nice heavy-duty 80-amp relay & 10 gauge wiring for it all.. Sucks air like a champ now, and has ZERO stress on the power steering pump now! That factory hydraulic fan setup was WICKED hard on the stock power steering system when it would engage, when towing especially!

Glowe Industries brand LED underglow I hand built SUPER cleanly on this 1990 Mazda Mini-Truck. I show in detail how I fabricated all the really nice aluminum brackets, and aluminum channel material for perfectly mounting all the leds in-place to, and how I did the wiring setup for it all... So happy with how 'clean' of a install Job I was able to do inside, outside, and under the hood (wiring wise) on this 1990 Mazda Mini-Truck... This video shows all the good bits and pieces from this underglow install job I did... Simple and straight to the point! Please watch and enjoy!!... I can't ever say enough thanks to Glowe Industries for providing me with everything I need to make these really nice SUPER bright underglow builds possible each and every time for all of my customers! Front- 2, 24" strips Grill- 2, 12" strips Sides (cab)- 60" strips Sides (under bed)- 18" strips Rear- 2, 30" strips Underdash- 2 12" strips ip-65 SP611E single-channel controller 30-amp RF relay & 2 key-chain remotes 4- 0.5 meter cables 3- 1 meter cables 2- 2 meter cables 2- Y-splitters 14ga Tinned-OFC main power wires 15-amp inline fuse 16ga Tinned-OFC cables running from inside the cab to the front 1- (1-in to 1-out) inline data-booster (inside the cab) 1- (1-in to 3-out) inline data-booster (up front to act as a 3-way split to work the underglow & grill lights) *all of which were made from single-sections of Version-6.1 led strips cut, and soldiered with the correct wires or ends soldiered in-place* They were needed in my application to be able to supply clean data (not-flickering or strobing) to so many things all at once at the very beginning like that from a single-channel SP611E controller

Found a 12v to 19v (20-amp) Step-up converter I forgot I had for another project in the past, and I decided to play with it since I've always wanted to hear what one of these stock fans would sound like running at a much higher voltage than stock, and see how much more air they may pull with the extra rpms... Well today was my chance to finally get to try that (just for fun, not gonna do this except just for this experiment was all)... It sounded EXACTLY like my 16" SPAL name brand electric fan that I run on my 1997 ZJ LOL... It was amazing this little 10" or 12" stock fan could sound exactly like a full size 16" fan with the increase in voltage haha...

Simple mod, that takes a cruise control servo (preferably from a parts Jeep) and allows you to raise and hold the idle rpms of the Jeep at a steady RPM while you are winching... This was my first test of the idea, and was only possible after studying the systems wiring diagram from the Service Mauals, and carefully testing how things work in a working cruise control system via a led test light and probing into the oem wiring while driving... Once I understood how the system worked, I was able to get a cruise control servo & wire harness pig-tail from a 1996 ZJ 4.0 parts Jeep to test my idea and figure out the wiring setup to make it function... My final goal is to use the rear window wiper switch as the controls in the long run... Cut its 4-pin connector off the back of the switch, and wire it to a ground source so the switches & button presses will all be grounded outputs to do what I need them to do... It also has a key-on 12v power source there at that switch too... I need 3 wires... 12v + with the Key-on... Ground with the wiper switch in the WIPE position... Ground momentary output when the rear washer button is momentarily touched. . That's it!... Then simply slide the switch to the ON position, and tap the WASH button to set the RPMs where you want them... Then slide the switch to the OFF position to go back to a normal idle again...

1997 5.2L V8... Replacing the power steering pump mounting bracket with the Billet aluminum one I bought from ebay... Now I won't have to worry about this one ever shattering into 4 peices like my original cast aluminum factory one did and leave me stranded LOL... $30 upgrade/fix! LINK... https://www.ebay.com/itm/111616502950