Volvo 2001-2009 repairs

I remove the filter and keep my hands perfectly clean. Canister used worn engine oil filter. Also works for cartridge filter type.

BOLT TORQUE at the end of this message Before removing the old bushing, be sure to mark the way it's oriented - scratch the subframe where the bushing has two notches, the new bushing must have the two notches exactly at same place: this makes sure the rubber reinforcement inside the bushing is pointing to the sides of the car - important (these bushings act sideways). Please be aware that some subframe bolts get stuck and can break (nasty). To install a new bushing, round a bit with sand paper the two INFERIOR (pointing downwards) metal edges of the subframe: the bushing sits on two metal layers of the subframe. Sand only the edges pointing downwards to allow the bushing to travel upwards when pressed it, the edges pointing upwards must remain sharp because the bushing hangs on these superior edges once in place. Be Aware that you will need a high lifting floor jack to at least 18 inch high or even more using a piece of 2x4. Smear the bushing plastic with a bit of grease. Place the bushing with the correct rotation (important), and use the large metal washer of the subframe washer with 4 nuts (see pics in the forum link) to drive the bushing in place - do NOT push on the 4 rubber bumps of the bushing, push only between the rubber bumps You also need to Keep a 1/2 inch space between the top of the subframe hole and the cross member of the car because the bushing will actually pass by a few millimeters over the top of the subframe, so you need to leave this clearance when pressing the bushing for the final few millimeters - use a few washers or nuts to keep the subframe from touching the cross member of the car body. I do not recommend to drive the bushing using the bolt. If it feels the bushing gets stuck, tap gently upwards around the metal washer with a hammer. To press the bushing in, you have the choice to either lift with a floor jack under the bushing or to slowly lower the car on a jack stand placed under the bushing, but again, you need something that is reaching very high, a standard small floor jack does not lift high enough, the bushings sit high on this car. Warning: always inspect your subframe bolts. Sometimes these are stuck, and a few people did break these while forcing to remove them - major problem. You need to use a 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 drive socket but if it feels stuck, better stop and not take a chance. Be aware that on some forums and blogs there is an incorrect higher torque reported that will cause the bolts to weaken and even shear while driving. These bolts typically must be replaced (stretch type), especially if you forced to remove them. Torque is 77 ft-lb (105 Nm) + 120° (new bolt), the two 14mm on the rear plate are 37 ft-lb (50 Nm). Pictures https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96106 Rusted / damaged subframe bolt https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=85069 Subframe tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUKw_-_LIXQ These bushings come out surprisingly easy using only a simple drill and screw driver. The trick is to simply crack the plastic collar at one point, then the whole bushing collapses. Please be aware that some subframe bolts get stuck and can break (nasty) Before removing the old bushing, be sure to mark the way it's oriented - scratch the subframe where the bushing has two notches, the new bushing must have the two notches exactly at same place: this makes sure the rubber reinforcement inside the bushing is pointing to the sides of the car - important (these bushings act sideways) To install a new bushing, round a bit with sand paper the two metal edges pointing downwards of the each of the subframe metal layers (these are sharp and 'grab on the bushing plastic'. Smear the bushing plastic with a bit of grease. Place bushing with the correct rotation (important) and use the bolt with the large metal washer with 4 nuts (see pics in the forum link) to drive the bushing in place - do NOT push on the 4 rubber bumps under the bushing, push only between the rubber tabs. Do not apply excessive force on the bolt and don't use impact - it may crack the bushing plastic. If it feels it needs too much torque on the bolt, tap gently upwards around the metal plate with a hammer. Consult this forum discussion for more tips (not my pictures) https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96106 Warning: always inspect your subframe bolts. Sometimes these are stuck, and a few people did break these while forcing to remove them - major problem. You need to use a 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 drive socket but if it feels stuck, better stop and not take a chance. These bolts typically must be replaced (stretch type), especially if you forced to remove them. Torque is 77 ft-lb + 120° (new bolt), the two 14mm on the rear plate are 37 ft-lb. To give you an idea what may happen, have a look at this rusted bolt picture https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=85069

Stuck or rattling sunshade shade cover due to broken cover brackets/guides. Volvo sunshade guides part 9483170 Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volvo-Shade-Guide-Clips/dp/B00KH8ON0I For the sunroof, if you tape the outside of the roof glass, that is the right thing to do. Here's why. If you only block the 4 drain holes on the tray - one at each corner - rain water will still leak at the glass seal which is never 100% watertight, then the water will accumulate in the tray under the glass, and leak past the border of the tray and will wet the roof liner and leak inside the cabin

Tensioner center point is for 15C / 60F 5 cyl gasoline engines timing marks on the cam and crank gears. If you are removing the cam gears for a seal job, be sure to mark everything properly - better yet, ask us on forums before going ahead. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/ Tensioner and belt check https://youtu.be/afcUC07LPnI Here's a write up on the VVT and timing belt components - there is a passage saying "turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise, then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond" - I do not recommend this particular step. Be sure to mark the cam gears everywhere before removal, ask on forums http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198 Another write up https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/timing-belt-replacement2.pdf

Not for diesel engines. Showing how to pass the timing belt over the crank pulley - Volvo gasoline (petrol) 2.3 2.4 2.5 turbo and non turbo engines. Timing marks https://youtu.be/2L0NgXJpfrg I'm not aware if this also works for the diesel D5 engine, which has a wider belt. Ask perhaps on forums such as https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 Tensioner center point is at 15C / 60F For the small cover with 10 mm bolts, use two long extensions on your ratchet and reach the bolt from the front of the engine - much easier to remove. I should have mentioned this in the video that passing the belt this way can be very frustrating and time consuming especially since there are many 'bumps' that block the belt. Here's a write up on the VVT and timing belt components - there is a passage saying "turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise, then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond" - I do not recommend this particular step. Be sure to mark the cam gears everywhere before removal, ask on forums http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198