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Released November 18th “The Menu” takes on the foodie culture and skewers, slices and dices it with a hilariously shocking thriller zest. Most of it is set inside the metallic contours of an exalted designer restaurant, a temple of haute cuisine called Hawthorne, that’s special enough to be located on its own island — Hawthorne Island, a 12-acre farm-to-table destination where the wealthy, the famous, and the pretentious pay $1,250 a head to sample the ever-changing tasting menu assembled by Chef Slowik (Ralph Fiennes). He’s a dour guru of cuisine who’s at once a self-inflated artist, a drill sergeant to his army of cooks (who labor just beyond the diners in an open kitchen), and an aggro foodie cult leader, introducing each course with a thunderous hand clap and a monologue that explains its significance. “Do not eat,” he says to the diners. “Taste.” But the exhortation to taste without eating is a chef’s form of narcissism. He’s such a legend in his own mind that he’s forgotten what food is for.
“The Menu” is a black comedy, but one played close to the bone. And it is a thriller, because after a while what’s being served to the diners segues from pretentious to dangerous. Even the danger becomes a form of snobbery: This is how much the food matters. Yet the tasty joke of “The Menu” is that the food doesn’t matter at all. The food is an abstraction, an idea, all generated to fulfill some beyond-the-beyond notion of perfection that has little to do with sustenance or pleasure and everything to do with the vanity of those who are creating the food and those who are consuming it.
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Music: Bensound
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