How to Upgrade the Low Beams on a Mazda CX 9 to LED

How to upgrade your headlights from halogen to LED in your Mazda CX9. This is a 2015 model which is the face-lifted version of the first generation, however this upgrade can be applied to other CX9 models along with other Mazda models as they are known to have dim headlight issues. This is my girlfriend’s vehicle, so a big shoutout to her for letting me use it for this demonstration. I will have a full in-depth review in the upcoming weeks. She was noticing extremely poor low beam, lighting performance while driving at night with the factory halogen bulbs. The headlight lenses are still in good condition so that isn’t having a huge effect on the light output. After some searching online, I did find that Mazda does have a common problem in this generation across the different models with poor headlight performance. #mazdacx9 #ledlights #Bevinsee

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-10mm socket
-3" extension
-3/8" drive ratchet
-new replacement bulbs

Procedure:
The replacement is fairly straightforward, minimal tools are needed.

Starting with the passenger side first. The coolant reservoir tank will need to be removed.

Using a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a 10 mm socket, remove the three bolts on the coolant reservoir.

Once those bolts have been removed, then you can push the reservoir back towards the windshield, do not disconnect the lines.

Remove the domed cover by rotating counterclockwise. Then to access the bulb, Unclipped the connector and rotate the bulb counterclockwise then pull it straight out. The camera angles for this are quite limited, however I’ll provide a better photo for the driver’s side.

Finally installing the new bulb replacement, plug in the electrical connector. These bulbs are polarity sensitive, so test the bulbs first before finalizing the installation. If it doesn’t work, simply rotate the connector 180 degrees.

When putting the bulb in the house, you’ll need to rotate the bulb and work by feel to find those alignment tabs, making sure they are properly in place. Push the bulb in, then rotate clockwise to lock it in. Always give the bulb a pullback to make sure it is locked in place.

Then fasten down the coolant reservoir. Install those 3 10mm bolts and tighten. Do not over tighten as this is only plastic.

Moving onto the driver’s side.

Again the domed cap will need to be removed behind the headlight. There will be plastic tabs around the perimeter of the domed cap, grab onto these and twist counterclockwise, then remove.

It was hard for me to get a camera in here without my hand being in the way. As you can see there is the bulb and wire connector.

You can unclip the connector first or after one the bulb is out, whatever is easier for you. For me, I pulled out the tang on the electrical connector and then pushed it off the light.

I then rotated the bulb counterclockwise, and pull out the bulb from the assembly.

Plug in the electrical connector for the bulb. Again make sure the polarity is correct. Then install the bulb into the headlight assembly, align those tabs, push the bulb into place and rotate clockwise until it stops.

Finally is installing the protective cap. Rotate until you can feel those alignment tabs lock into place, then rotate clockwise until it stops.

Here is a comparison between the old halogen on the left and the led upgrade on the right. The whiter light will greatly help with eye fatigue, there is a substantial increase in light output with the led, they greatly improve the aesthetics of the vehicle, have quicker startup time, and have a lower operating temperature reducing the deterioration of the plastic headlight lenses. The projector housing work great with LEDs as they help focus the light and don’t cause an irritant for fellow motorists.

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