Q&A - August 20th - Sliding Scopes, Red Dot Zeroing, and the Henry Golden Boy

00:00 Intro

00:24 Head Position

"Will adding the 10X booster change head position?"

The short answer is - your head position can change, but not enough to matter much. Our quick measurement yielded a difference of about a quarter inch. We did not clamp Chris into a lead sled, so I didn't get a more precise measurement.

If you find that changing from the 6X to the 10X eyepiece does change your eye relief enough to move your head, there's plenty of room on the sunshade to adjust the stopper to keep your head where it ought to be.

03:56 Henry Golden Boy

"Did your golden boy already have drilled and tapped holes for the scope? My 2008 model does not. My barrel is octagon."

Our Golden Boy does have holes drilled near the rear dovetail. However, the HGB (H004) mount for the short Malcolm scopes does not make use of those holes. All it needs is a dovetail. I haven't found a Golden Boy without a rear iron sight, so mounting the scope has not been an issue.

(Please note - we're talking specifically about the Golden Boy, not the Big Boy or Yellow Boy)

05:15 Sliding Scopes

"the scope moooooves. that really scratched my brain compared to modern conventional ideas."

Old scopes had considerably more fragile materials for both the reticle and glass. The rifles also had a lot more recoil for some of the more common ammo (.45-70, for example). In order to save the delicate internals of an old 1800s scope, the scopes were built to slide.

Sliding does not change where the scope is pointing (e.g. your point of aim), but it can change your eye relief. The scope will have to be pulled back to its starting position ('battery') before firing again, otherwise you'll have to ride pretty far forward on the rifle to maintain your eye relief.

The scope can also be configured not to slide, though this should only be done for low-recoil rounds. Stronger stuff will require sliding in order to save the scope and mounts.

08:51 Handgun Ballistics

"If i'm zeroed at 10 yds that's great if all my threats are at 10 yds. Where do I aim if the threat is at 5 or 20 yds? Do I compensate by moving the dot off target or will these differences in distance still yield an acceptable grouping?"

Generally speaking, the offset at 5 or 20 yards isn't enough to change the fact that you'll be hitting the target when aiming straight on. The target is still within the 'point blank range' of the handgun. In fact, you'll be fine out to potentially 75 yards, depending on a few factors. At any rate, it's definitely not necessary to aim off target.

You'll probably only need to hold an inch or two off the center to get a bullseye. In the heat of the moment, even if you forget to hold off, you'll still be causing the target to have a bad day.

12:33 Outro

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