Marni - The Fall Winter 2024/25 Collection Show

Volume and zero volume, hidden body and revealed body, symmetrical and asymmetrical, monochrome and animal print: Marni's autumn-winter 2024 women's collection looks like an Yves Saint Laurent for Dior on acid. We don't know how much is casual and how much voluntary in Francesco Risso's choice to outline a fashion that seems designed for science fiction cinema à la Dune (that of David Lynch) and how much is a specific period of the past, where Paris was so exalted by innovations of the Space Age of Cardin and Courrèges, to choose to abandon precious fabrics for a while and venture into experiments that the inclement Chanel defined as "mechanical". It doesn't matter, the result is a disconcerting current situation which makes it more legitimate to ask ourselves whether it is the costume that we have taken from the catwalks or whether we are not pretending to live in a great simulation (social cause, which we will discuss immediately) in which now even the most common of gestures must take on the connotations of theatricality.